You're making this too hard. There are no torque specs for the F series, nobody had torque wrenches. Turn the nut tighter and put the cotter pin in. They were not wired from the factory they had cotters. There are also no spec for clearance on these babbit bearings. The IH book recommends (as suggested by another reply) to remove a pair of shims until they feel tight and then put one pair back in. Did it actually spin the bearing shell or just ruin the babbit? The heavy bearing keepers the shims are between should make it impossible to "spin" the shells. It is more likely you have a plugged up port on the oil bar, the one that fills the dipper tray for the ruined bearing. Neighbor guy has a freshly overhauled 20 block in his shed on a pallet, has a nice big hole in the block where his rod came through because the oil port for #2 was plugged with a piece of crud missed in the cleaning process
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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