As a 'workaround' solution, I can see why one would do this. Just allow a certain amount of resistance to build up as heat is generated during cranking. But - not ideal, or even recommended. Large, hot wires are not a good plan.
Get a 12V starter, or if you really want to get resistance find an old carbon pile or resistance box and mount it to the side of the tractor and wire it in to provide the kind of voltage drop needed.
Better yet, properly maintain a 6V system and it'll do the job just fine. I started my 8N in Feb up in CO at 9F to plow some snow. Good oil, good cables, Working carb and choke. It took a few cranks to keep it going, but I never worried about destroying my starter while it was cranking. Keeping the terminals and connections clean and free of corrosion is just regular maintenance. I also let it run for a bit after starting to warm up correctly, and charge the batt back up to it's normal voltage.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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