Really, there is no excuse for stripping out a drain plug. Not if your business is removing and re-installing drain plugs. First, the drain plugs in every GM car sold in the last thirty years have an unthreaded pilot that makes it very difficult to cross-thread. And if there's a problem with over-torquing the plug, then the lube joint should be using a torque wrench on every plug. Smart tire shop owners figured out a long time ago that customers don't like it when they break studs or leave nuts loose; good shops torque every lug nug these days.
I've changed the oil on a number of late-model GM vehicles with cast aluminum pans, although not a Cruze. You would have to put a LOT of torque on them to strip the threads. Anymore, the GM plugs don't use a washer to seal but rather have an O-ring built into the bolt head. When they're tight, it's a metal-to-metal contact between the pan and the bolt head flange; you can tell EXACTLY when they're tight. I don't use a torque wrench, but I always tighten them with a half-inch drive ratchet. Looking on-line it seems GM plugs are supposed to be tightened to 18 ft-lbs.
I don't think your friend would have any problem prevailing in small claims court against the JL franchise for the cost of her pan replacement.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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