Really, there is no excuse for stripping out a drain plug. Not if your business is removing and re-installing drain plugs. First, the drain plugs in every GM car sold in the last thirty years have an unthreaded pilot that makes it very difficult to cross-thread. And if there's a problem with over-torquing the plug, then the lube joint should be using a torque wrench on every plug. Smart tire shop owners figured out a long time ago that customers don't like it when they break studs or leave nuts loose; good shops torque every lug nug these days.
I've changed the oil on a number of late-model GM vehicles with cast aluminum pans, although not a Cruze. You would have to put a LOT of torque on them to strip the threads. Anymore, the GM plugs don't use a washer to seal but rather have an O-ring built into the bolt head. When they're tight, it's a metal-to-metal contact between the pan and the bolt head flange; you can tell EXACTLY when they're tight. I don't use a torque wrench, but I always tighten them with a half-inch drive ratchet. Looking on-line it seems GM plugs are supposed to be tightened to 18 ft-lbs.
I don't think your friend would have any problem prevailing in small claims court against the JL franchise for the cost of her pan replacement.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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