Neighbor built a weight box out of wood and metal. He used concrete blocks to fill box. After a few years of bouncing around, the box broke up. I used the metal 3 pt part and welded it to a 55 gallon oil drum. Estimating he was lifting large bales of hay that may weigh in at 1000#+ and the hay he was lifting was a greater distance from the front wheels than the ballast weight would to be behind the rear wheels, we filled drum with concrete, about 1250#. Works just fine
Tractor numbers and loader numbers means nothing to me without looking up your tractor. What I will say, google how much weight your 3 pt can lift and don't exceed that. Avoid bouncing the ballast, you could damage your tractor. Use my idea with a 55 gallon drum, fill it with dirt to get an idea how much weight you need. Or fill with concrete a little at a time.
A second thing to consider besides weight, is how far back you hang the weight. Another thing to try is use a brush hog to get an idea of weight and distance.
I've seen some people with loader ram loader into a dirt pile to fill front bucket. The sudden stop could damage your 3 pt if you have a rear ballast. Use your head. Take it easy.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Black Tire Paint - by Staff. I have been fortunate in that two of my tractors have had rear tires that were in great shape when I bought the tractor. My model "H" even had the old style fronts with plenty of tread. My "L" fronts were mismatched Sears Guardsman snow tires, which I promptly tossed. Well, although these tires were in good shape as far as tread was concerned, they looked real sad. All were flat, but new tubes fixed that. In addition to years and years of scuffing and fading, they had paint splattered on
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