It doesn't necessary have to be the neutral switch, though it could be.
A simple test would be to hold the brake, hold the ignition switch to start, and move the shifter through the gears, push it firmly into park, see if it will try to start.
If not, try to get a test light or volt meter onto the solenoid terminal you jumped to get it started. Have an assistant hold the switch to start, see if you get power to the terminal. Do this with the wire connected to the solenoid.
If you get a bright light or good voltage (say 10v or more) there is probably something going on with the starter (even though it started when jumped directly). Could be the solenoid is getting weak, worn or stuck brushes, cold oil/grease in the starter.
If the light is dim or low voltage, could be a weak connection, weak neutral switch or ignition switch. Continue to trace the problem, looking for corroded connections at the neutral and ignition switch.
If no voltage at the terminal, the neutral switch would be a likely suspect, but still better to check than just replace. I think the neutral switch is on the side of the transmission where the shift linkage connects.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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