If it is an original, the name is usually cast into the flange where it mounts to the manifold, and it will be made of cast iron. And there would be a round brass tag riveted to the side with some letters, like TSX.
There are also a lot of aftermarket replicas, they are usually aluminum.
These are simple carbs. If you are careful, it may come apart without tearing the gasket, then it could go back without a kit.
There are 2 fuel mixture adjustment screws. The smaller top screw is the idle mixture. If it is clogged, it won't idle without the choke. On this carb, it adjusts backward from most. The screw regulates the air mixed with the idle feed, so turning the screw IN richens the idle mix, OUT leans it.
The other screw, the larger one, is the main jet adjustment. It operates as a fuel adjustment screw, so backing it out will richen the main mixture.
You might try adjusting the idle again, start with it about 1 1/2 turns off the seat. If it is working, you would back it slowly out until the idle falters, then back in to best idle, then about 1/8 more turn in.
The main jet is a little tricky to adjust. Start about 2 turns off the seat. Set the engine for full governed speed. Bring the engine to idle, then suddenly open the throttle. The engine should take full throttle without hesitation. Start turning the main adjust in 1/4 turn at a time until the engine stumbles on acceleration. Then back the screw out 1/4 turn at a time, repeating the test until it will take sudden acceleration without hesitating. A single puff of black smoke is desirable.
Of course, before doing carb work, make sure everything else is in good order. The air cleaner mesh needs to be clean (a commonly over looked item), the points, distributor (check for shaft wear and be sure the centrifugal advance is free and working), timing, all ignition components, fuel condition (fresh and not contaminated with water or rust) and the valve lash is set.
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