Can you just replace the cartridge in the old valve? That's usually the best way to go.
When soldering a new valve, it's best if you can remove its cartridge to avoid heat damage. And I prefer to not solder directly to the valve, if possible, since the mass of the valve soaks up a lot of heat making it tough to get a good joint. What I do is to solder short pieces of pipe to 1/2 inch male pipe thread adapters, then screw those into the valve. Then you can use sweat couplings to connect to the existing plumbing. It's much easier to solder connections which are a few inches away from the shower valve. (Obviously this won't work if you only have room for street elbows into the shower valve; in that case I'd solder in the street elbows before installing the valve, as you'll have better access to the joints.)
I like to use tees rather than elbows to plumb in shower valves, with stubbed-off pipes a few inches long above the valve. This helps to eliminate pipe hammer in the shower and the rest of the house.
As for resoldering an existing joint, sure you can do it, but you need to wipe off as much of the old solder as possible, then get it very clean with emery cloth. Make sure the pipe is clean well beyond the fitting.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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