I built my own last month. I used a metal 55 gal. drum, I burned a bunch of 3/4 inch holes in the bottom, for drainage, then burned two rectangular holes in the sides, to allow a ford 3 pt drawbar to slide thru the barrel, about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom. Inside the barrel , on each side, I dropped a 3/4" bolt thru the drawbar, in the existing holes, and that was to capture the drawbar , so It couldn't work its way out of the barrel. I then made me two pieces of 4" angle with a 3/4" holes, for a top link pin, and bolted them to the top of the barrel, to serve the top link mounting. I put it on the tractor first, the drove over to the gravel pile, and proceeded to fill the barrel. If you make one remember to put the drawbar thru the barrel very low down on the barrel, to get adequate ground clearance, also use lengths of log chain, as stops, so your 3 pt can't drift down.
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Today's Featured Article - Antique Tractor Wiring Basics - by Curtis von Fange. One of the most neglected parts of old tractors is the wiring. After sitting in the elements for half a century or more much equipment wiring has deteriorated to sparsely covered strands of copper or other metal. Plastic insulation has cracked, mice have eaten through the older clothed style coverings and the exposed wires have reacted to winter moisture and salts by turning blue and powdery. Terminal ends have corroded, rusted or just plain evaporated away. Aged wires not only keep an engin
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