I think that solid bar 48" long is the wrong piece of iron for an axle. Quality axle manufacturers use a hollow tube to reduce weight and yet have plenty of strength. Even with the tube less than .250 wall thickness, the stub will bend before the tube bends. A friend borrowed my tandem axle trailer and proved the stubs will bend before the tube bends (if the spring pads are close to the brake flanges). Purchase some appropriate ID tubing for the axle stubs you already have, set up a careful alignment jig and weld the stubs in place. That is how most (maybe all?) commercial axles are built. The axle is then bent with a rise in the center to give the wheels and tires a bit of camber.
If you are cheap and lucky, you might find a trailer home or RV axle that you can cut the tube section from. Because of the camber already bent into it, mark the center of the tube and then cut 24" to either side of center. You may get lucky enough to avoid any lathe or mill work. I did get that lucky with some used axle tubes, so careful welding was all that was needed for 6000# capacity axles.
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Today's Featured Article - A Question for Dads This recent topic from the Tractor Talk discussion board is being highlighted because it is an awesome display of the caliber of individuals that have made this site their own. The young person asking questions received positive feedback and advice from total strangers who "told it like it is" with the care many reserve for their own kids. The advice is timeless... so although it isn't necessarily antique tractor related, it will be prominently displayed in our archives to honor those who have the courage to ask and those who have the courage to respond in an honest, positive manner.
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