You can get sharpeners of different shapes other than flat or cylindrical. They also come in various materials, such as steel, carbide, abrasive grit, diamond, etc.
First you have to look at the teeth on your blade, then find a sharpener that matches those teeth. Then you simply sharpen the non-smooth side of the blade. For blades with very tiny serrations in them (like many steak knives), don't waste your time doing it the proper way. Instead, do it the NON-proper way and use a flat stone on the flat side. I've seen serrated knives sharpened so much on the flat that the serrations were nearly totally gone.
NOTE: The more you sharpen on the flat, the less effective the serrations will work once sharpened because you are grinding away the teeth. But I'm with Flembo in that there's really no need for anything other than a smooth, sufficiently sharpened blade on a knife. Now a saw blade is a different story, and for different uses.
Anyway, getting back to serrated blades, I've actually taken good-quality serrated or partially-serrated blades and reworked into smooth blades. I still use some of those to this day.
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Today's Featured Article - The Ferguson System Principal An implement cutting through the soil at a certain depth say eight inches requires a certain force or draft to pull it. Obviously that draft will increase if the implement runs deeper than eight inches, and decrease if it runs shallower. Why not use that draft fact to control the depth of work automatically? The draft forces are
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