Tension is adjustable ( a 12" plow does not need as much tension as a 16" plow as the larger bottom takes more power to pull thru the ground) and the same release was used on several different makes from 1 bottom to 4 bottoms, just had to be adjusted correctly. Also type of ground comes in to play as light sandy you do not need the tension you need on heavy clay soil. Now some companys used there own design and the way it was made you had to use all the hitch parts. I don't know what make your plow is and and the hitch you have is. I know Deere used different setups on the 44 plow so I would need more information to tell if would work or not. Picture of plow toung and of hitch I might be able to help you. Off hand I know Oliver, Moline, Deere used the same unit on some plows. Instead of designing their own they bought the hitch from a company that only made hitches. McCormick had their own version. Older Deere used their own as well. The higher the hitch on the tractor and the lower the hitch on the plow the more chances of the front end comming off the ground if you hit something and you have enough traction (tires and weight) that you do not set there and spin out. That is providing you have plenty of power that you don't kill the engine right off. I started plowing over 60 years ago.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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