Fix it right, if the rubber's shot the bearing probably isn't too far behind, and they fail at the worst times and if ignored for long drop the driveshaft on the pavement.
Should be a slipyoke there, mark the driveshafts, slide the slipyoke off, strip any remaining rubber away, and pull or press the bearing off of the shaft.
When going back together, clean the bearing mounting area, I use a drop of Loctite retaining compound since there's nothing but the press fit to keep the bearing in place, you need a pipe or sleeve that will just slip over the splines, and catch the ID of the new bearing, but small enough not to destroy the metal dust shield next to the bearing. Tap it in place, or better yet press it (but it takes a tall press because of the driveshaft length).
Match your marks and slide the slipyoke back in place. Likely, there's one odd spline so it will only go back together one exact way, but that doesn't stop some guys. My son works parts at a dealership and had to order new yoke just the other day, after the "factory trained" hacks in the shop tried to pound one together without matching the odd splines up!
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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