You have a bending beam torque wrench. The one I have has a set screw holding the pointer and the pointer is tapered so it will move the point as it is turned. All in all they seldom go out of calibration. Start in the middle of the head and work your way out; go up to first torque in 2 or 3 stages. Set valve clearances a little loose, start engine and get it to operating temperature and retorque and set final valve clearance. When you torque sneak up on final slowly; you will feel the fastener creep to the end point. As others have mentioned chase the stud holes with a tap and wire brush the bolt threads. Had a 172 blow a head gasket between 2+3 because it was running on 2 cylinders (every other one in the firing order). I surmise the uneven heat took out the gasket. I would make sure the ignition timing was right on; retarded timing will push BTU's out the exhaust and water jacket. Ditto for running carb lean. Check the head and block with a framing square for flatness. Check for sedimentation or casting sand in the block with a probe.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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