You have a bending beam torque wrench. The one I have has a set screw holding the pointer and the pointer is tapered so it will move the point as it is turned. All in all they seldom go out of calibration. Start in the middle of the head and work your way out; go up to first torque in 2 or 3 stages. Set valve clearances a little loose, start engine and get it to operating temperature and retorque and set final valve clearance. When you torque sneak up on final slowly; you will feel the fastener creep to the end point. As others have mentioned chase the stud holes with a tap and wire brush the bolt threads. Had a 172 blow a head gasket between 2+3 because it was running on 2 cylinders (every other one in the firing order). I surmise the uneven heat took out the gasket. I would make sure the ignition timing was right on; retarded timing will push BTU's out the exhaust and water jacket. Ditto for running carb lean. Check the head and block with a framing square for flatness. Check for sedimentation or casting sand in the block with a probe.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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