I usually am not one to answer questions that were not asked but have been there done that with iffy fuel tanks and can guess where you are at. Unless you clean that tank out thoroughly inside and out to open up all those "almost a holes" you can plan to be chasing your tail for some time and even when you think it is fixed it will soon be leaking once more, sorry but that is how it works out. As much as it hurts to watch it seemingly destroy what your trying to fix you need to sandblast or grind and wire wheel the the outside until it is clean and then clean the rust from the inside. Best way I have to do that is to place a couple coffee cans full of small nuts washers and bolts or even roofing nails and then tumble it. I tie them to my cement mixer. You then need to put some muratic acid in the tank and swish it around and rinse thoroughly. Ya, it will look like swiss cheese at this point but you will then see why it needs to be done this way. all those holes were soon to be leaking. I use regular 50-50 or 60-40 soft solder, bar solder works best and you need a good flux such as Ruby fluid.Also a copper iron works much better than trying to use a torch. Once tinned the correct technique, heat and solder will fill the holes. When it will hold water dry it and coat the inside with whatever tank coating you like, I use redcoat.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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