Re: Case 188d questions/how it fires

Posted by abertarelli on April 27, 2017 at 18:31:55 from (65.151.16.249):

In Reply to: Case 188d questions/how it fires posted by abertarelli on April 27, 2017 at 16:04:24:

Such good info. I adjusted the pushrods but bent two of them screwing around with things. I ordered a new set of eight and

Replaced them all. New ones seemed beefier. I bet things are a bit off. I will pull cover check tdc and re adjust valves. I bet that's it. I'm surprised I got nothing at all even with either in the intake. I bet the beefier pushrods have things messed up. I knew I should have re adjusted, but figured new ones would be the same as old. I will let you know.

Adrian

quote="CVPost-Steve@Advance"](quoted from post at 17:54:17 04/27/17) A few things to check...

As others have said, be sure it is on #1 compression stroke. A simple way to tell, with the valve cover off, set the timing mark at TDC, watch the rockers on #4 cylinder. Rock the engine back and forth a few degrees each side of the TDC mark. You should see the rockers on #4 just start to move because #4 is in valve overlap position. The rockers on #1 should not be moving. If this is happening, it is on #1 compression, if everything is backward, it is in #4 compression. Rotate the crank 360* and check again. Once you know it is on #1 comp, set the pump to that position.

Have you set the valves after assembling it? Sounds like an obvious question, but I have heard of it not being done.

When cranking, do you see white vapor out the exhaust? If no vapor, there is no fuel coming through the injectors. Even though you saw fuel in the lines, that doesn't necessarily mean there is not still air in the system. With air in the lines, the air compresses and the fuel doesn't build enough pressure to crack the injectors. So, if no vapor, keep bleeding. I just loosen the lines at he injectors, crank until I get good flow. Also, there could be a fuel problem ahead of the injector pump. If there is any place it can suck air, it will. Look for loose connections, improperly sealed filter/separator, bad lift pump, rotten lines, etc.

You also need a healthy starter, fully charged battery, good, clean, big battery cables. The engine needs to be cranking fast enough to build enough compression to start.

Once you have everything on order, and still no results, sometimes the more difficult ones need to be pull started.

Remember you will need to retorque the head bolts, and readjust the valves once you get it running and up to temperature.[/quote]

Replies:

Add a Reply Name: E-Mail: Subject: Comments: Optional Link URL: Link Title: Optional Image URL: Optional Video Title: Optional Video URL: Email Notification: If you check this box, email will be sent to you whenever someone replies to this message. Your email address must be entered above to receive notification. This notification will be cancelled automatically after 2 weeks.   Advanced Posting Tools   Upload Photo  Select Gallery Photo  Attach Serial # List  Return to Post

TRACTOR PARTS	TRACTOR MANUALS

We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]