My soils here in Minnesota are kind of hard clay soil or mucky peat soil, both high to very high in ph.
It is difficult to correct a high ph condition economically. You can slowly modify it, or work with it. But there is no easy fix like low ph has.
Our soils are very rich here, where snow and cold keeps the top soil from burning away all year long. Our organic material stays around, my farm averages over 4 for organic material. In your part of the world in heavy tillage over the years, your organic material burns away, and you can get real low. That is why much of the country is concerned about retaining, or rebuilding, organic material by changing tillage practices and using cover crops even on the big farms. This is not so much of up in my cold neck of the woods, we are more concerned with too wet and too cold in spring.
If your soil test shows a CEC number, that is how much 'holding capacity' a soil has, it relates well to how much N you can store in the soil, hoe much water stores in the soil. As well as other stuff somewhat. Sand can be a 5 CEC, or lower. Clay is often in the 20s or higher. I have some peat ground that is in the high 30s for CEC.
The trick for me is rolling hills, and these soils will change 3 different times in one pass over a field. There is nothing uniform or equal on a whole field! That is why the grid sampling, breaking the fields down into small patches and treating them separately, helps me out so much. It's not 'cheaper' but is is so much better......
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