Silly engineering is not a new idea. I have a '63 Buick with factory air conditioning. To remove the heater core, the right bucket seat has to come out along with the entire console, the carpet on the right side, the crash pad under the dash, the tissue dispenser, the radio, the heater/air conditioning controls, which are pot metal and cables (these need to come apart so they won't break) and most of the instrument panel, including the glove box has to come apart. Then you remove the heater hoses under the hood, the clamps are buried under the blower plenum. It makes the project easier if you have a service manual so you can find the one hidden bolt. If you do not find the hidden bolt and you pull on the case to get it out, it will break and a replacement has to be found. IF you find a replacement in a junkyard somewhere, the same procedure has to be followed to get IT out. After the heater core is successfully replaced, those cables have to be adjusted so everything will work again. Be careful not to strip the threads in the 50+ year old plastic couplers used to adjust the cables. GRRRR!
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Black Tire Paint - by Staff. I have been fortunate in that two of my tractors have had rear tires that were in great shape when I bought the tractor. My model "H" even had the old style fronts with plenty of tread. My "L" fronts were mismatched Sears Guardsman snow tires, which I promptly tossed. Well, although these tires were in good shape as far as tread was concerned, they looked real sad. All were flat, but new tubes fixed that. In addition to years and years of scuffing and fading, they had paint splattered on
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