A little calcium chloride can go a long way, both as freeze protection, and in corrosion. It isn't the big leaks that make for rusted out rims, but the small ones that go unnoticed for months, or the replaced tube put on a rim that got salted that was not thoroughly washed and dried before re-assembly. Even without full "freeze protection", it takes a lotta cold to bring it to 'stiff slush' - not a problem if you don't use the tractor on the very coldest days. Even so, there are better options.
One is iron weights - nothing to leak out of a tire (er, "tyre"), but air, and makes handling tire/rim a WHOLE lot easier when that need arises.
Another is beet juice (in many places called "rim guard") - non toxic, not corrosive, but I'm told it does not mix at all with calcium - it gels.
Washer fluid and used antifreeze (ethylene glycol with a laundry list of other additives) have also been suggested here (and other places), but both are environmentally toxic, even more so than calcium, which will kill vegetation. A hundred gallons of calcium in a field when you poke a tire on an old horse shoe isn't exactly helpful to producing crops on that spot. A hundred gallons of antifreeze or washer fluid spilled is legally required to be reported as a haz-mat spill. I personally don't want to fill a tire with a legal problem waiting to happen, to say nothing about my commitment to making this world a little better for my being here, not worse.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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