Posted by Steve@Advance on June 05, 2017 at 18:44:39 from (66.169.147.211):
In Reply to: 07 Ford Escape posted by dieselfuel on June 05, 2017 at 17:47:35:
The "spark the cable" test is no longer a valid test for modern vehicles.
They will all spark, there are all kinds of timers, capacitors, memory circuits, and computer related items that have to charge up, time out, and do whatever is programed for it to do when power is restored. If all goes well, the drain will slowly dissipate in a few minutes.
The test light in series with a disconnected cable is also out dated, won't work on a computer controlled car.
First, check the obvious. Try disconnecting the battery overnight, see if it still has a charge the next day. You might want to have the battery checked just to eliminate it being the problem, or switch batteries with another vehicle.
Check for any added accessories, like radio, security system, remote start, anything that was added to the car or changed. Electronic installers are notorious wire butchers!
Try disconnecting the alternator, both the main wire and the plug in connection.
You will be looking for a substantial drain. A small drain, like a glove box light, trunk or hood light, will take more than overnight to discharge a healthy, fully charged battery.
So, to do a valid test, you will need a DC amp meter, like a multimeter with a DC amp setting (not milliamps). With everything off, connect it in series with a disconnected battery cable. Give it a few minutes to level off, the reading should go to zero.
If not, start pulling under hood fuses. If you have to get inside, you will need to block the door switch to kill the interior lights, and even that may not completely stop the drain with the door open. It can be difficult to find, a lot of weird stuff doing strange things...
But hopefully it will be something obvious. It usually is, but they can be mind benders!
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