Keeping a sharp twine knife is a good start, yours could be a bolt on knife,if it has an up-dated wiper arm, and like the others said having the wiper arm meeting the Billhook nice and firm is also necessary,,and silly things like having the twine threaded through the needle on the wrong side of the needle roller (yes I have seen that happen) a worn cam lobe in the drive wheel where the wiper arm is driven too can pose a problem. But a Dull twine knife can be a major issue that is often over looked, If the knife is dull, it will start pushing on the twine instead of cutting it right away,,the timing of the bill hook will still be progressing,at that point the knot is being "Cinched" tighter than normal on the Bill hook,,as the wiper arm/knife blade pushes harder on the twine it will finally cut the twine, but a little too slow for the timing of the bill Hook,,now the knot is very tight on the bill hook, and won't wipe off well, if not at all,,at this point the plunger is adding hay and pushing the completed bale on out the chamber, and yanking the knot off the Bill hook ether breaking the twine or fraying the knot to where it will break as it leaves the chute,The knotter is a complex but also a simple mechanism, and the history of how Ed Nolt came up with the idea in 1939 is a good story.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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