Went out and tried it again this morning and that helps keeping the chamber full. It's just a full time job grabbing hay, wadding it up a bit, and getting it in place before the plunger comes down. It's at an idle and I'm getting 20 strokes/min. You're lucky if you can get a handful of hay in it every other stroke. I didn't put a belt tensioner on it until just now as I was wanting them to slip in case it binded up, but after running it several hours, it seems to work smoothly and I just built a tensioner. I think it needed to break in a little and seat itself. Now, I think I can add more hay at a time keeping the chamber full. Before, if you overloaded it, when the piston went to compress the hay, it would stop until you helped it through the tight spot by hand. Now I think it'll have enough energy to cycle on through that.
Knotters? Still doing it manually. Building a set of auto knotters is way above my pay grade~ha, ha. Those are a mystery in itself. There is no way this will ever work like a full scale baler (being automatic), but it will pick up hay and feed it into the chamber with the pick-up and the auger, you just would have to have someone on a little chair riding around in back tying bales non-stop. Or just bale it up and have it spit out the back minus the twine. This is more of a toy, but I would like to get the banana issue figured out as this is annoying. Just wanted to see if I could build one and so far-so good. Pat
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: How to Remove a Broken Bolt - by Staff. Another neat discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I have an aluminum steering gear housing with a bolt broken off in it. The bolt is about a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. I've already drilled the center of the bolt out with about 7/64" drill bit the entire length of the bolt. Only one end of the bolt is visible. I tried to use an easy out but it wasn't budging and I didn't want t
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