Trailers are notoriously hard on wiring, lots of shaking and bouncing, tends to break wires, wear through insulation. The more you can secure the wiring the better and longer it will last.
Using the correct type (automotive wire, it's more flexible than industrial wire), and size (14-12ga), solder and shrink tube every connection, secure and protect the wire away from sharp edges and secure tightly to prevent sagging, bouncing, and snagging, ground each axle, and try to keep each wire the same length from where the main wire splits.
And the brakes themselves need to be in good working order, clean and free of grease, and adjusted properly.
Also the suspension needs to be in good order. Shackles, eye bushings, spring mounts, proper geometry, all effect weight distribution, which effects braking ability verses sliding the wheel.
I don't think the controller is to blame, though there are different types of controllers. The proportional types work best. This type knows how hard you are stopping, and applies the trailer brakes accordingly. However, it still sends a common signal to all the brakes, it doesn't know which axle or wheel needs the most braking, or if one is sliding while the others are still rolling.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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