If you believe it has a tapered shaft, it could be an old Bush Hog. They used a tapered shaft with a key. To take the pan off, I am assuming here that you have the mower on the tractor, Lift it as high as it will go and then block it good so you can safely work under it. Loosen the nut but don't take it off. I generally bring the nut out even with the end of the shaft to protect the threads. I put a piece of hardwood on the shaft and drive upward on the wood with a decent sized hammer. that should loosen it. Bush Hog uses a keyed, tapered shaft... likely others do as well. As to the pan, there is a heavy bar, about an inch thick and 3 inches wide inside the pan. The pan only serves as a shield to keep that bar from directly contacting stumpsnd rocks. I have welded the pan with good success. It does not affect the integrity of the pan, blades, etc. I mowed commercially for many years and put the mower through a lot of abuse. hope this helps.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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