We went in and talked with the mechanic this morning. Fired it up and tested the air cutout to shut it down, comforting to know it works. It barely smokes given what I'm used to with diesels, but they are going to check out the number one injector and cylinder anyway which Scott listed as one of the problems with the tractor. He's an expert diesel mechanic so I'm sure if he says it's bad, it's bad. Since they've got to pull the engine to get at the 2 speed transmission, it's the time to find out what's wrong there if anything.
I also looked at the mount areas for the ROPS. It's bothersome that the tank fenders take up all the room where the ROPS baseplates would connect. I'm thinking that they are mutually exclusive or a custom ROPS is required. If we did a custom ROPS, it could then be a cage like Geo mentioned. I had a full cage on my AC 816B, and that was very useful in the woods even if you don't flip it.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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