Posted by docmirror on August 07, 2017 at 08:03:53 from (107.213.165.255):
In Reply to: 1952 Ford 8N posted by Lake County Tractor on August 06, 2017 at 21:19:44:
RE: Trans fluid and water.
I had the misfortune of submerging my 8N in water for about 3 days. My solution but NOT recommended by anyone but me.
Put the drain caps back on. Mix up a batch of fluid from a gallon of diesel fuel, and a gallon of cheap hyd fluid. Fill the case with that, and run it for a short time. Operate the lift a few times to cycle fluid through the lift asm. The diesel fuel is modestly hydroscopic and will pick up some of the remaining water. Drain and refill with non-synthetic quality Ford M4864 type fluid. There are other options but this is a good compromise for your temperature.
Again, this is my method only. My trans and lift work well today. It's also a good idea once you get the new Ford fluid in to run the tractor for several hours, and may even leave the fill cap loose which will help evaporate any water left in the case by getting it plenty hot. If you have a PTO attachment like a bush hog, now would be a good time to go clear some land.
As for your coolant, you need to read the back of the coolant label and find the temp chart. It will tell you what ratio of coolant to water to use.
Now, as for getting your old coolant out, this is going to be a hassle. Here's what I did and again NOT recommended by anyone but me.
Remove the coolant from the radiator with the drain cock at the bottom. If there is a drain cock on the engine and not a plug, do not use the little handle to drain the engine. Remove the drain cock itself. It may be frozen to the block if it's been in place a long time. If it breaks off, you will need to go to a tool store and get an "EZ out" to remove the old drain threads from the block(ask me how I know). Once you have the drain cock out of the engine block you may be wondering; 'hhmmm, why is no coolant coming out of the engine?'. The reason is because the crud has built up inside the cooing passages of the engine for 60 years!
Take a coat hanger and straighten out the loop end. Jam the coat hanger wire into the drain hole and wangle it around some, to loosen the crud. Water and coolant will begin to flow. Keep jamming the wire around in the block to get as much fluid as you can out of there. Now you need to decide how much crud you want to remove, and how long you want to work on this. You can use a small hose adapter to force water into the block from the drain hole. Then, use the wire jam method to drain that out. This water will be somewhat cleaner than the first drain. Keep flushing until things look good.
Leave the drain plug out, then close the rad drain, and fill with clear water. Start the engine, and let it come up to temp while you are adding water to the rad, and draining water form the block. You can also leave the rad drain open as long as you continue to add water to the rad and don't let it run dry.
Once you are satisfied that the engine and rad are fairly clean, and you are now filthy with old coolant, the joy of cleaning your cooling system is done. Turn off engine, Let all the water drain out. Add a new plug to the engine block, close the rad drain. Follow the directions on the coolant jug and fill with distilled water and coolant. Do not top the rad off. Leave about 2" of air gap in the rad for water expansion as it gets hot.
Run the engine, and check the rad coolant level regularly as there will be air pockets in the engine that will be burped out. Run the engine all the way up to working temp, and carefully check the coolant level. If you want to get fancy, and check the operation of your radiator, the temp of the bottom rad hose will be about 25-30F cooler than the top rad hose. It is wise to keep the stock fan shroud on the tractor. A lot of them are removed, or cut up, or damaged. A good fan shroud will help move a lot of air, and keep the tractor at the right temp, which also helps oil pressure, and fuel econ.
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Today's Featured Article - Listening to Your Tractor - by Curtis Von Fange. Years ago there was a TV show about a talking car. Unless you are from another planet, physically or otherwise, I don’t think our internal combustion buddies will talk and tell us their problems. But, on the other hand, there is a secret language that our mechanical companions readily do speak. It is an interesting form of communication that involves all the senses of the listener. In this series we are going to investigate and learn the basic rudimentary skills of understanding this lingo.
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