I'm surprised by all the people that like the slip-clutch versus shear bolt. On a bush hog designed for a 30-45hp tractor, I think the shear bolt design is just fine. I like the idea of KNOWING that the bolt is going to pop and not hurt the tractor. The slip clutch can be/should be tested 1/year to make sure it's working, but I'll bet the majority of people never do.
If that clutch doesn't slip when it's supposed to...serious problems are pretty much assured. Hopefully all of the damage is in the bush hog and not the tractor. Maybe I'm just paranoid, but grade 5 bolts are like $2.00/lb at the hardware store and it takes like 1 minute to throw a new one in.
Now if I was clearing/re-claiming pastures for a living, or had a much larger tractor, I'd go slip-clutch. Odds are you would exercize that clutch pretty regularly in unknown areas, and productivity would be a bit quicker than jumping off the tractor 3-5/ job in a rough area. I knock the weeds/trees down in an area I'm very familiar with...so I rarely need to throw a new shear bolt in.
We have several old Bush Hog branded rotary mowers around our place. Another is JD branded...not sure who made it. They are all beat to hell and rusty. Keep the blade sharp and the gear box full of lube, and they all work just fine. Buy at least a medium grade model and I doubt anybody could tell the difference between any of them.
Use some sort of grader belt or rubber matting to keep rocks from beating up the back of your tractor or giving you a nasty welt when you get into any rough areas.
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Today's Featured Article - Good As New - by Bill Goodwin. In the summer of 1995, my father, Russ Goodwin, and I acquired the 1945 Farmall B that my grandfather used as an overseer on a farm in Waynesboro, Georgia. After my grandfather’s death in 1955, J.P. Rollins, son of the landowner, used the tractor. In the winter 1985, while in his possession the engine block cracked and was unrepairable. He had told my father
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