Since the links are forged, they both snapped cleanly at the ball end. I can't see any "bend" or other sign to indicate which way the pressure was that caused them to break.
Disc did not hit tires when I initially set it up. I don't know when that sway chain broke.
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Yes, sway blocks are in place and I have new chain to replace the broken sway chain on one side. So that'll get done.
Question: How do I determine the proper length for the sway chain? Just long enough to prevent impliment from contacting tire? Or other?
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I'm using a category 2 threaded centerlink with bushings to downsize to the Deere's cat 1 connecting point on the tractor. Yes, it's aftermarket, on a 1965 tractor, the original was nowhere to be found.
What does the original centerlink do differently?
Related question: This deere has different 3 point "float" settings". Which should I be using?
Somebody's going to also have to explain why chain WOULDN'T work. The disc weighs over 750 pounds, this is a top end Howse box frame HD disc. I'm field discing food plots and yes, I have some rock. But let's avoid any nonsense about the disc flipping over/up on me. Not going to happen on any terrain I have.
I'm thinking the chain method is worth a try. Unless that's going to somehow stress out some other component?
Again, appreciate all the replies and help. At least I got lucky and the top links I broke were on opposite ends, so I could take 2 broken ones and make 1 good one.
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Today's Featured Article - Listening to Your Tractor - by Curtis Von Fange. Years ago there was a TV show about a talking car. Unless you are from another planet, physically or otherwise, I don’t think our internal combustion buddies will talk and tell us their problems. But, on the other hand, there is a secret language that our mechanical companions readily do speak. It is an interesting form of communication that involves all the senses of the listener. In this series we are going to investigate and learn the basic rudimentary skills of understanding this lingo.
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