Since the links are forged, they both snapped cleanly at the ball end. I can't see any "bend" or other sign to indicate which way the pressure was that caused them to break.
Disc did not hit tires when I initially set it up. I don't know when that sway chain broke.
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Yes, sway blocks are in place and I have new chain to replace the broken sway chain on one side. So that'll get done.
Question: How do I determine the proper length for the sway chain? Just long enough to prevent impliment from contacting tire? Or other?
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I'm using a category 2 threaded centerlink with bushings to downsize to the Deere's cat 1 connecting point on the tractor. Yes, it's aftermarket, on a 1965 tractor, the original was nowhere to be found.
What does the original centerlink do differently?
Related question: This deere has different 3 point "float" settings". Which should I be using?
Somebody's going to also have to explain why chain WOULDN'T work. The disc weighs over 750 pounds, this is a top end Howse box frame HD disc. I'm field discing food plots and yes, I have some rock. But let's avoid any nonsense about the disc flipping over/up on me. Not going to happen on any terrain I have.
I'm thinking the chain method is worth a try. Unless that's going to somehow stress out some other component?
Again, appreciate all the replies and help. At least I got lucky and the top links I broke were on opposite ends, so I could take 2 broken ones and make 1 good one.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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