Today.. there a lots of mixtures of simi-synthetic oils that are GREAT oils. There are also very expensive fully synthetic group 5 ester based oils, and there are single weight junk waxy and sulfur group1 and group2 oils...
More important is a good additive package, with a simi synthetic base oil, and this will give you the service you need!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you operate in -40 degree extremes, you will need a special oil or fully synthetic group 5 oil.
As a rule of thumb.. go with the owners manual recommendation, on any modern car, will do just fine.
Single weight non-detergent oil should NOT be run in any engine build after 1930. Early engines had a very soft bearing material and it was a poured Babbit material, into the journals. Modern additives/detergents oils will actually clean the soft babbit from the journals and destroy the engine.
You can buy modern single weight oil with additives and detergents, but a multiweight will give superior performance when cold, so there is no practical reason to purchase a single weight detergent oil, and NO reason to purchase a NON detergent oil for engine use.
NON detergent oils are for sewing machines,typewriters, and door hinges.
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Today's Featured Article - Grain Threshing in the Early 40's - by Jerry D. Coleman. How many of you can sit there and say that you have plowed with a mule? Well I would say not many, but maybe a few. This story is about the day my Grandfather Brown (true name) decided along with my parents to purchase a new Ford tractor. It wasn't really new except to us. The year was about 1967 and my father found a good used Ford 601 tractor to use on the farm instead of "Bob", our old mule. Now my grandfather had had this mule since the mid 40's and he was getting some age on him. S
... [Read Article]
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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