The new coil. Take the wires off the terminals, check across them with an ohm meter.
If you get around 3 ohms, that coil is designed to run on a 12v system without a resistor.
If you get 1,5 ohms, that coil needs a 1.5 ohm resistor in series with the + terminal.
Regardless what the coil may say on the can, best to check it. If it needs a resistor, it will overheat the coil and burn the points. If it doesn't need a resistor, and there is one in the circuit, you will have very weak spark.
Another thing to check is side play in the distributor shaft. If any play, the points will not stay set, and can change with varying RPM and temperature. Once points are run out of adjustment, that can be arced and will not make good connection. The quality of today's points is bad. Might consider a Pertronix conversion.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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