After a failed, choke assisted start, some fuel dripping from the carb is normal. If the drip stops after a few seconds, it is not flooding.
If the fuel begins to drip soon after the fuel valve is opened, or the engine loads up, begins to blubber and make black smoke, then you have a flooding carb.
Trash in the needle/seat is the most common cause. Sometimes you can pull the drain plug on the bowl, let the carb drain, turn on the fuel valve and flush out the trash. But if the tank is contaminated with rust or trash, it will get back in there. Only takes a tiny piece to hold the valve off the seat. Be sure the screen is in the sediment bowl. Inline filters are not recommended for gravity flow systems. If you do add an inline filter, be sure it is a screen type, not pleated paper.
Other reasons can be a defective needle/seat, loose seat, float level set too high, sunk float, or bent/binding float. Just because it's new doesn't mean there is not a problem with the carb. They are aftermarket, anything is possible.
But, you could have other problems. Have you cleaned the air filter element? There is a mesh element inside the canister, it is often overlooked. Also check for mud dobber nests, mouse nests.
If this is still a 6 volt, everything needs to be right for it to start. The battery cables need to be size 0 or larger, not the skinny ones from the auto supply. The starter needs to be healthy and in good repair. If the bushings are worn, it will draw too much amperage, robbing the coil of enough voltage to fire while cranking. The battery and generator need to be in good order. A slightly discharged battery, dirty cables, faulty generator will cause starting and running problems.
As for the distributor and other electrical components, they are all aftermarket. Today's points and condensers are poor quality. Even though new, they can still be the problem.
Finally, have you checked the compression? A tired engine will not start easily, no matter how well tuned.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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