Posted by Used red mn on September 19, 2017 at 10:45:51 from (174.219.136.93):
In Reply to: Re: 1030 engine woes posted by Jon f mn on September 18, 2017 at 18:57:03:
Some may think this is engine assembly vodo but on rod bearings I use what I call the "hammer tap check" to check for fit, which mostly applies to the bearing being to tight. The first mechanics I worked for were the sons of a crotchety old mechanic. He was known in our area for being rough on the edges, but also being very knowledgeable. So I think part of this technique is from installing and fitting babbit bearings. On modern day insert bearings I always plastigauge one then reassemble with oil (usually 30w but white lithium is okay as well) and torque. Then get out a small ball peen hammer 10oz or less. I then tap lightly on the rod cap at a slight angle to move it the one side of the crank journal. Then repeat at the opposite angle as to move it to the opposite side within the side play. It should move freely side to side; after a few tries you will see what I mean. Then I proceed on installing the rest of the rod bearings with the tap check after torqueing. I have found several cases when the tap test felt to tight and it was confirmed with plastigauge. Of course then either the bearings are wrong or the rod/crank has come back out to be corrected. On the mains outside of plastigauging them all or relying on the free turn test that is about all you can do. Of course the micrometer measurements are a must. If you don't find anything with the oil system I would say that the bearings must have been to tight but not tight enough to keep it from turning.
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