Hi It's not always about compression, it's how big the turbo is/well matched to the motor, how much fuel you put in it, how good the new/used motor was to start with, and how hot it gets running. Then the final real important bit how much like you stole it, do you want to drive it, I've seen guys destroy factory fitted turbo engines!!!.
There has been many stock diesel tractors over the years had aftermarket turbo or farmer shop built kits fitted to stock engines that have been fine driven right. Most of them just involved upping the oil pressure a bit for the turbo, and cranking the pump screw to match the fuel to air. The lucky tractors got done on a dyno or the pump went to the shop.
The unlucky ones got the screw turned till it smoked like the 8.15 express pulling hard up hill, and went to work. Many of those engines never had the pistons valves/seats or anything touched. We had a Belarus with an aftermarket kit it was a totally stock motor that went from 90 hp to 110hp with just oil pressure and fuel altered and still had more to give with no problems. we sold that tractor less the turbo kit and dropped the fuel and oil pressure back it went from a 1062 back to an 862 in 3 hours. Regards Robert
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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