So are you getting spark from the coil? Directly from the coil you should get a spark about 3/4".
If no spark from the coil tower, connect a test light or volt meter from the + terminal of the coil to the bare metal case of the distributor. Turn on the ignition (or connect the jumper to the battery wire), crank the engine through. The light should remain bright, or the volt meter read above 9 volts. If the voltage pulses, the distributor case is not grounded. Also the ignitor module must be grounded to the distributor case with the mount screws.
If there is good spark at the coil, but not making it to the plugs, carefully check the rotor to the cap relation. Be sure the rotor is the correct height and length, the carbon button is in contact with the rotor electrode. A spot of grease on the carbon piece will determine if the rotor is contacting the cap.
You can loosen the distributor, turn on the ignition, rotate the distributor housing opposite the direction the rotor turns until the coil sparks. You have to do this somewhat quickly with electronic ignition, but keep turning and watching the relation of the rotor and the terminals under the cap. The goal is to determine if the rotor is pointing at the cap terminal when the coil sparks.
In the photo, there appears to be a piece of wire around the coil tower. What is that? Not supposed to be there.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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