The 1030 is a very solid reliable tractor. IMHO, it was already dated when it was introduced in '65 or '66. They have "power assist" steering and everything else is manual. The steering, clutch and brakes are heavy to actuate compared to their contemporaries, but they hold up well and the transmission is very durable. The disk brakes are not great, but comparatively simple and easy to rebuild. 3000 hours is very low hours for any tractor half that age. Weather checked rear tires and rusty rims would cost $2,000 to replace. A little blow by was common even when new, it is most likely just water vapor, but check it for sure. If the engine has never been touched, the sleeves and o-rings could become problems. Check the coolant for exhaust gases and the oil for antifreeze? Comfort King tractors never had a high trade-in/resale value compared to other brands.
Drive a 1070, 970, 2290 or 2090 before buying. To me a 1070 is more comfortable and feels 15 years more advanced than a 1030. If an all manual open station fits your needs it could be a good tractor for you. Myself, for $5,000 I would be looking at 1070's with power shift and a modern cab.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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