> So you're saying a tail light is more prone to burning out than a headlight.
That's a silly comparison. The two bulbs have quite different designs; each is designed to dissipate the heat it generates. In the case of the two different coils, they both are nearly identical physically, but the "12 volt" coil has to generate and dissipate twice the heat of the "6 volt" coil. A better comparison would be two 120 volt, 100 watt incandescent bulbs. If you run one at 110 volts and the other at 130 volts, which one will burn out first? Most likely the 130 volt one, because it's generating much more heat than the other.
> I think a large wire and a small wire, run at the same temperature, are probably each just as durable.
The point here is the smaller conductor is carrying the same CURRENT as the larger conductor. So it is NOT running at the same temperature, it is hotter. Think fusible link: the smaller fusible link fails at a lower current than the conductor it protects.
> I don't think I've ever seen a 12v No External Resistor Required coil anyway.
Most auto parts stores carry them, or at least used to. I believe they were used as original equipment on VW Bugs, but I'm not sure about that. They are also available from everyone's favorite source of questionable tractor parts, TSC.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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