My setup. I believe I spec'd a 1973 Chevy, 6 cylinder alternator....as I had a 73, V8 Chevy pickup, as a teenager and didn't remember it having a external voltage regulator--and I had to mechanic on it all the time-LOL! My thinking was the 6, would have a lower rpm range. I went thru the suggested checks..BAT at alternator and #2 terminal are hot all the time/switch OFF and battery hooked up. #1 terminal was around 10.5 volts, with the switch ON, no voltage with switch off. On the cluster, the BAT wire from the alternator goes to the - side of the amp gauge, voltage from the battery goes to the + side of the amp gauge. The "red" wire pictured goes from the open side of the switch, thru 11 ohm resistor and also now a 12v LED light(have tried with/without LED before) and runs to terminal 2 on the alternator. I found no resistance in the LED light, so thought I'd give that a whirl. IF I cut the switch on, amp meter moves slightly to discharge, headlights, tail light on...moves further to discharge, with the tractor off. My Super A doesn't have a water pump, alternator is driven off the fan pulley(new, aftermarket) and the crank turns the fan. I purchased the "kit" that included brackets to mount the alternator. Maybe I did get alternator of the wrong year. I dropped alternator pulley size down anyway, from a 2.6 to a 2.3 overdrive pulley. We have an optical tach at work and was going to borrow to see exactly what RPM the alt. pulley was actually turning at high/low speeds.
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