I like grease same as the next guy. Maybe even more. But what I've read and heard from respected mechanics and others is that these sealed parts are not meant to be greased. I've thought how great it would be to second-guess the people who designed them and add some means of getting grease in there--via drilled zerks--but ultimately decided to leave it alone. When the parts wear out--after long use--it's time to replace.
This is from another forum, but deals with a truck that is similar to one I once had (F250 with 4WD)--and it's related to ball joints, not tie-rod ends.
"So anyhow I got the zerks put in, and got all the ball joints installed. Then I went to grease them. The two greasable ball joints took grease just like you'd expect them to- no problems. But the non-greasable joints were truly SEALED. I tried to pump grease in there, and very little would even go in before the grease gun pump just locked up due to pressure. There were no provisions in the seals to let out air and/or old grease and let in new grease. IOW, it was a complete waste of time, and likely did more harm than good. Even with zerks installed, the ball joints were still not 'greasable' in any practical sense."
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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