I realized I might have been confusing, but can't edit or add to those posts---a slight pita.
In step 2. the objective is to operate the points manually. You will get a small spark at the points when they open. You should get a 10-15,000 volt spark out of the high tension lead coming out of the coil wire,
I should have told you to remove the high voltage lead from the distributor cap and rest it about 1/4" near whatever ground you can find on the block so that any spark from the coil will travel from the lead to ground just as it would jump across the appropriate spark plug/s if the rotor and cap were in place. You might also hear a pop as it jumps or somewhere if there is a short. It is also helpful if you do it in the dark as you were already doing. It is Christmas and you may get some lights. lol
You should have 12 volts going into the coil even if there is a current limiting resistor.
Measure the coil resistance with both lug wires removed and high voltage lead removed. There should be 10,000 ohms or greater resistance between the + terminal and the high voltage output on the coil. This is where there are a lot of windings of very fine wire. The primary winding is another story.
Measure the primary winding resistance from the distributor side of the coil and the coil case. It may or not be grounded. Normally you should get a resistance of about 0.75-2 ohms when measuring across the two small lugs.That is why a coil will get hot if the ignition is left on without cranking. The windings ratio is about 100:1, but naturally the primary windings have far fewer turns and are greater in diameter to carry the current.
I assume you are using a digital ohm meter. Be sure of the resistance range settings and be sure to short your meter leads first before testing each resistance range because some of these meters are flaky on different ohms settings. It is impossible to get a zero ohms reading on my cheap Centech meter at the lowest range.(.1-199 ohms) It usually runs .4-1 ohm with the leads crossed so be aware of that if your meter is a low end job.
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]
Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: Fordson Major - by Anthony West. George bought his Fordson Major from a an implement sale about 18 years ago for £200.00 (UK). There is no known history regarding its origins or what service it had done, but the following work was undertaken alone to bring it up to show standard. From the engine number, it was found that this Major was produced late 1946. It was almost complete but had various parts that would definitely need replacing.
... [Read Article]
Latest Ad:
1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
[More Ads]
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
