You said you only use the tractor occasionally so you have to decide the cost/benefit layout to you. The world is your oyster.
Me, I am a cheapskate so I find a You-Pick auto yard and buy a coil (if the price is reasonable) that will fit to sort out problem. Luckily I don't normally have to do this as there are several old coils here laying around. These are kind of disappearing since about 1995 when most car makers went to coil under cap or direct ignition.
Yt and everyone else has mew coils and it depends on how soon you want it + shipping charges. It all depends on how much time and money you want to spend on everything.
The only downsides of using breaker points is wear and some tractors are more prone to get weather corrosion on the contacts. Just a little corrosion resistance and insufficient current flows to the coil and then they have to be cleaned or lightly filed. That's why I use electronic boxes, CDI, hybrids, or HEI conversions. They will trigger even when the breaker points have a number of ohms resistance. Electronics almost always make a tractor quicker and easier to crank and run even when still using points.
Then there are the Pertronix units and reluctor type pickups which the Pertronics probably are underneath. The Pertronix units replace the points and serve also as an electronic ignition unless you want to soup up the voltage. The others usually require an additional box to turn the signal into a coil pulse.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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