I believe the thought is totally backwards to reality.
Modern HD oils, and premium oils.. are made to keep particles suspended and keep them from clumping.... They have cleaning agents.... They don't have volatile components that vaporize off and cause the oil to thicken. so hot or cold, should in theory make no difference. However warmer oil will flow a bit better and should drain better. Ironically these oils keep the contaminates suspended in any temperature. So the only oil that you could drain cold, is this kind of oil.
Cheap oils wax out and leave sediments behind when they cool down, so the HOTTER the oil, the better for getting the oil, and the heavier paraffin molecule chains out of the engine. These oils have no cleaning additives and additives to fight corrosion or moisture. These oils have thin components that vaporize off so that the oil gets thicker over time. So again, warmer oil will remove more moisture over a cold engine and help thin the thicker remains. Professional racers ALWAYS drain the oil immediately after a hard track run, at its hottest, to get the most contaminants out. Cooling only allowed them to settle out of the oil, and therefore they stayed in the engine as sludge.
For my money, I will hedge towards old thinking, to get the best drain possible, removing more of moisture and contaminants. I will always try to drain warmer or hot. Running a "BETTER" oil is more important however than the drain temperature.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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