A true 1 wire 10si has a different more expensive regulator in it. They use them in boat applications. Problem is a true 3 wire 10si will work as a 1 wire if you rev it up enough to get the regulator to leak enough to start the charging process. So people use or make do with a 3 wire in place of a 1 wire.
The 12si 15si and 27si all look different than the 10si. So if yours looks like web pictures and it is only a 37 amp alternator it is most likely a 10si.
R or some time S stands for 'Reference' or voltage sense terminal. This is the one that gets hooked to 12 volts. It usually goes back to the battery do to live voltage drop but a tractor system is so small you can just hook it to the B terminal on the back of the alternator.
F is field. this is the wire the diode goes in and it needs to be switched where you can turn it on and off. Usually with the starting key.
The system originally came with a dash (idiot light) light bulb. Since most tractors do not have a place in the dash you can use a one way diode. The purpose is to supply 12 volts to the alternator when key is on but not allow 12 volts back into the system with the key off. To make sure you get the diode facing the right way and in the system properly I usually recommend buying to plug and play system you can find on ebay. Here is one......
https://www.ebay.com/itm/152043261434?rmvSB=true
A true 1 wire; or a 3 wire; will charge out the gate at a idle. A 3 wire used as a 1 wire will not charge at idle until it is reved up. Then it will work normally at idle until shut down.
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