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Tractor Talk Discussion Board

Re: Alternator wiring and selection (for replacing a generator)


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Posted by John T on December 17, 2017 at 16:28:41 from (71.49.29.133):

In Reply to: Alternator wiring and selection (for replacing a generator) posted by chappie on December 17, 2017 at 04:55:14:

Chappie, instead of long winded discussions about the pros and cons of which alternator, I RESPECT THE CHOICES YOU ALREADY MADE and will simply try to answer YOUR questions lol BUT NO WARRANTY I don't have any GM data or spec sheets handy I'm going on memory ONLY so it may be right and it may well be wrong SO THERE take it or leave it lol


1) "First off, I learned to NOT use a ONE WIRE alternator. Not only are they very costly, but wont charge when the engine is running slow or idling. It appears that the only plus about them is that less wiring is needed. But running a few wires dont scare me any."

That's your choice and a good one in my opinion


2) Anyhow, I already have several old GM alternators with the 3WIRE setup. So, that is what I will use.

Sounds like a good plan to me

3) None of the alternators that I have, have that number on them. But I wonder if that's more of a generic number for the TYPE, not the part number. I have a GM 3wire alternator right next to me. It has the following numbers on it.
1100794 37A 8C25-12VNEG I dont know what the first part means, but I assume the 37A means 37 amps. Also the 12V means 12 volts and the NEG means negative ground. (Is this correct?)

I THINK SO but no warranty, I have NO GM specs or data to go on

4) But is this then a 10Si?

I THINK SO but no warranty, I have NO GM specs or data to go on


5) Ok, so assuming this one will work, there is the THICK RED wire on the screw. Yea, I know that goes to the Battery. Then there is a plug with a blue and a white wire. I know one of these goes to the engine side of the ignition key switch. The other goes right back to the battery terminal and usually is just jumped back to that screw where the battery wire is connected. But which goes where?

If those 2 small terminals are labeled the "1"/"R" (Excitation) is that which gets 12 volts when the ignition is on, while the one labeled "2"/"F" (Voltage Sense) that can wire to the hot ungrounded battery post or many just jump it to the big main rear output stud on the alternator


6) Also, I have seen that I need a diode in that wire that goes to the ignition switch. But others say to use a small lightbulb. WHICH IS IT? Or can I use either? (the diode seems easier).

YES you can use EITHER of those or even just a Resistor. a) IF you use a lightbulb it needs to be a small marker/indicator INCANDESCENT NOT an LED b) If you use a diode wire it at the correct polarity c) You can use a simple 10 ohm resistor with no worry about polarity and its cheaper then a diode ITS YOUR CHOICE

7) However, if I use a diode, what amperage and voltage diode is required,

As long as its rated for 5 amps (more wont hurt and even less amp rating as the current required for initial excitation is small) and at least 50 Volts PIV it will work.......Its just that a 5 or more amp HAS BIGGER STRONGER LEADS then a wimpy Diode with teeny small wimpy wire leads that break easier

8) or for that matter, if I use a lightbulb, what number bulb? (Yea, I am sure its a 12v bulb).

I don't have that part number, very small marker/indictor INCANDESCENT (NOT LED) seems like its 91 or something I forget

9) I already changed it to a NEG ground by reversing the battery cables as well as reversing the wires on the Ammeter and on the Ignition coil.

YOU DONE GOOD

10) One last thing. Someone told me I still need to have the alternator modified so it charges at low idle.

I NEVER had to do that and don't think its necessary

THERE YOU GO I TRIED TO ANSWER YOUR QUESTIONS BUT IM NOTTTTTTTTTTTT ANY GM EXPERT

John T


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