Posted by Hobo,NC on December 23, 2017 at 18:51:40 from (75.136.231.157):
I hope this is a happy ending to this issue.
I found a used engine advertised with 85K it was in a ambulance. What I could see on the ambulance was rust free but every thing on the engine was stuck are suffering from rust. I chalked it up to the environment the engine was in.
I did some modifications, rebuilt the turbo, put my injectors in with new o-rings, pulled the oil pan re-sealed it and took care of a common oil leak were the dipstick tube passes thru the pan, re-worked the fuel canister and pressure regulator, did a EBPV delete, replaced the rear main seal, put a 3" exhaust down pipe and a few other things. Replaced all the coolant parts including radiator replaced both fuel tanks and re-worked the fuel pic-up's. I am into it now a little over 3K in parts It fired right up no problems it ran better than it ever has and strong :)
I moved on to little nic-knacks not engine related got them repaired then went for a ride thru town truck running GOOD THEN it cut off WTF! Towed it in and spent several hours scanning and googling. I went after the IPR on back of the HPOP my engine is a 95 the replacement a 96 the IPR is different so I made one out of the two using my 95 and the end off the IPR off the 96. I think the IPR just stuck and needed cleaning move forward it fired right up and ran strong I have drove the pizz out of it so far so good...
This is my first rodeo with a 7.3 it was a bear the most aggravating SOB I have ever worked on all in said and done they are not that bad. The first thing you need is about 3000 dollars when that's spent 3000 more so have a good cosigner lined up. Once you have used up your cosigner money refinance you house you are all in are junk it and move on with life.
If I had to do it again the engine is coming out to begin with no way I am pulling the heads with the engine in the chassis again. I would pop the cab off it can not be that bad and it would eliminate the bad. The turbo is just a plain MF'er to remove once you remove it and do a EBPV elimination deal along with relieving some clearance issues its not that bad. The 3" down pipe deal go ahead and cut the body seams at the pinch welds bending them over does not give you the clearance (BTDT) you need to fit the pipe from the top EZ. I took a die grinder and made quick work out of it then pumped the seam full of red high temp RTV....
Anyone want a 95 F250 rust free with 124K I will take 17K for it if it sales that's OK no love lost. If it don't I will just drive it for another 20 years its fixed the way I would want it down to a new spare tire...
Next project those P.O.S. stock mirrors have got to go...
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