Re: F350 Diesel Voltage Check

Posted by Paul in MN on January 06, 2018 at 15:43:02 from (65.128.229.125):

In Reply to: F350 Diesel Voltage Check posted by UP Oliver on January 05, 2018 at 20:27:29:

I read all the other replies, and there are many good ideas. I have an 02 F350 PSD and ran into another possible problem. On the + terminal of the battery at the right front, where the lead batt post clamp connects to the cable, there was enough corrosion beneath the insulation of the cable that there was less than half of the cable to carry the current. This was very difficult to see, but I could feel a bit of swelling of the wire beneath the insulation. All of the current from both batteries goes through this junction as it goes to the starter motor. You might be able to diagnose this with an infrared thermometer immediately after the extended cranking but not starting. Memory is a bit hazy on this next comment, but I have a faint recollection of the alternator output cable joining the battery cables at this same point. But the starters do have a limited life and will get weak. They are permanent magnet motors with ceramic magnets. The buildup of rust can cause "rust jacking" cracking one or more of the magnets. Then they get very weak. I recall one of our PS trucks having this problem and the rebuilt replacement lasting for less than one year. IIRC, my son found brand new Denso starters to be available and are an upgrade compared to original equipment.

Now about the plow.... Are you running an older Western with the large diam old style starter motor? They take a lot of current, especially in really cold weather when their ATF oil is thick. Years ago (late 80's), I switched over to the Meyers system with the Bosch type permanent magnet motor, and the much thinner blue fluid. It pumps much better in severe cold weather, but also will leak out faster through rust pits in your turn cylinders. The very common E48 or newer E60 Meyers pumps will do their jobs with less electricity than the older Western. Modern plows today have all gone to the permanent magnet motors and variations of the thinner fluid. Also consider where your + lead for your plow is connected. If it is at the + post of the battery at the left side of the truck, that is not as good a place as the + terminal on the right side. If the cables and all connections are perfect, it probably does not make any difference. But with the age of this truck, nothing is perfect anymore so you try to do the best with what you've got.

I have run snowplow trucks since 1967, and never had a brand new one, nor a new plow. So there has been a lot of learning along the way. Good luck to you!

Paul in MN

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