Philip here is where you can find a trouble shooting manual for most of the common space heaters. DESA International built the majority of all brands of the forced air heaters until they went bankrupt. Other companies are making the same heaters now. With the manual you can easily work on your yourself. Really the only special tool needed is the low pressure gauge to check the air pump pressure. It just needs to read 0-5 PSI. The majority of the parts in them are economical. The electric eyes are $15-20, nozzles $10, filters a few bucks. The igniter trans former is the most expensive and they are around $40.
Take the cover off and blow all the dirt and junk out of the combustion chamber you can. Under the nozzle holder you will see the fuel line going straight down into the tank. Loosen the top nut on the ling right at the nozzle holder. In side the line is the fuel filter. It is a screen so you can usually clean it and reuse it. On the back end of the heater is the air pump. There is a foam filter on the back side that needs to be clean and a felt one under it. take the screws out of the plastic plate that the foam filter fits into and you will see the felt filter. For test purposes you can run the heater with the filters off. Under where the felt filter is you will see a small round hole going into an aluminum housing. This is the air inlet to the vane air pump. When it is running your should be able to feel it suck on your finger.
The general theory of operation is pretty simple. The Vane air pump, pumps low pressure air, 3-5 PSI. This air stream goes to the nozzle holder where it is blown across the top of the fuel inlet line/filter. This creates a Venturi effect that sucks the fuel out of the tank and blows it out the nozzle. In front of the nozzle is spark plug type igniter. This lights the fuel on fire. There is an AIR fan driven off the opposite end of the vane air pump. This create the air flow that blows the heat out the front of the heater. Right beside the igniter is an electric EYE that looks for the flame. If the heater does not light it shuts the entire heater down.
Some of the most common reason a heater does not work: 1) The filter plugged up with rust dirt. This will restrict the fuel flow which lowers the pressure. This makes the cone sprayed by the nozzle be narrower than it should be. This make the fuel not reach the igniter so you have the electric eye shut the heater off. 2) Plugged air filters. This causes low air pressure which does the same thing as the plugged fuel filters. 3) Bad vanes in the air pump itself. This means it will not pump the required air pressure. A set of the four vanes and springs in around $10. The housing is higher around $20. Usually just the vanes are bad. 4) Bad electric eye. Shuts off right after start up. 5) Flame out where it lights but then goes out. Low air pressure. set the air pressure up with the adjustment on the back of the air housing.
This is just some of the things that commonly happen. These heaters are simple. The newer ones do have a circuit board but it usually works or not. They rarely give any false readings.
Just Google this title. (Desa Kerosene Forced Air Service Manual For Hot ... - DesaTech) this will take you to a page that has a PDF manual you can download for free. I printed one out for the shop.
Parts can be found all over the Internet for these heaters. DESA built: Master heat, Knipco, John Deere, Ready heater, and many others.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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