Testing either the mechanical (small frame tractors like a 450) or the Hydraulic Big frame tractors like a 806 is the same. The best test is pulling a tillage implement. with the tractor pulling hard in direct drive (lever forward) crisply pull the lever back (or switch). it should down shift int the reduction like a n automatic does going up a hill. Clean change in ratios. Then crisply pushing the lever forward it should up shift with very small transitional slippage. The engine should come down to loaded in tenths of a second. The other way is to test it on a county road by starting out in road gear with the lever back. give it near wide open throttle and (when safe) let the clutch out like you are avoiding an accident. It should pull from a stop cleanly and when shifted to direct, act as above with little slippage. If the master clutch is worn, slippage will occur in all tests. If the tractor does not move, the sprag clutch is out. If it will not go into direct, (no shift) the TA front clutch is out. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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