For the sake of discussion you did the F terminal ground and it didn't work. Remove the belt, disconnect the A and F terminals, and using a heavy wire (jumper cables work well for this) apply the hot side of the battery to the A terminal. The generator should spin fast and clean like a motor. While motoring ground the F terminal. The generator should slow down but continue to spin. If this happens, the generator is ok. Now it's time to test the wires between the regulator and generator. DO NOT use an ohm meter. One fine hair will show a good connection but it will never carry enough current to work. Use a load like a headlight bulb. Disconnect each wire from the regulator and generator and make a simple circuit using each wire to light the headlight bulb. Bright bulb = good wire. Test the battery wire on the regulator the same way. If everything passes check the grounding tabs on the regulator. Buff off any rust or paint under the regulator mounts including anything else between the regulator and the ground side of your battery. If it still doesn't work, replace the regulator. If you do this pinpoint test exactly, you will find the problem.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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