Free advise for those having trouble bush hogging with an 8N.
A) Know which way your blade spins.
B) Sharpen your blades with a grinder, then finish with a 120 grit belt sander to about 6" in from the end. Plan to do this fairly often, and plan to buy new blades when they get too narrow. I lift my bush hog all the way up with the 3 point, support it with two 2x4s at the tail, and spin the blade so they can be sharpened by bending down and doing it on the spindle. Makes a world of diff, but YMMV.
C) If/when the bush gets pretty heavy, run the tractor half path into the heavy stuff. On most decks, the left side is the leading edge of the rotary and should do the cutting while the retreating side on the right accumulates the detritus.
Sure, having more HP would be faster, deeper, harder, wetter. It can all be done with the 8N, just takes a little longer under heavy load. Live PTO is a moderate hassle, but again - there are ways around it. First lesson is leave the clutch alone! Get the hog spinning in N, push the clutch in, put it in gear, let the clutch out, and don't mess with the clutch anymore. I also take my bucket off the loader, and run the loader all the way up to minimize the load on the front.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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