The 10SI has a built in regulator, so the old regulator will go away.
The wire on the regulator labeled BAT can be reused. Extend the wire to the alternator and connect to the BAT terminal. This is a high current connection, so be sure to properly splice the wire. By using this wire, the amp gauge will still work.
The other 2 wires, (arm and field) previously on the regulator will not be used. Those same wires will be disconnected from the old generator and not used.
You will need to run a wire from an ignition source, through a resistor or diode, to the #1 terminal of the alternator. The simplest way to connect is using a small incandescent 12v lamp as a resistor. You can add it as a charge indicator light on the dash, or tape it up out of sight at a convenient location.
Also run a jumper wire from the #2 terminal to the BAT terminal.
If you didn't pick up a harness plug for the alternator, go back to the auto supply and get one, it will make the install much cleaner and less likely to short out.
Assuming this is already a negative ground system, if not it must be changed to negative ground for the alternator to work. Be sure the alternator is mounted securely, the pulley is properly aligned and the proper width. Any shortcuts in this area will cause rapid belt wear, slipping, and bracket breakage.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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