No I did not I had not confirmed why I had a no start checking voltage at the injector was in the back of my head tho :wink: My thoughts why did the light stay dim when I tried to drive the system pig rich to get a long bright light/pluse.
I am satisfied that
1) battery/battery voltage cranking GOOD
2) cranking RPM ( I am going to trust your sense of normal) GOOD
3) Spark (with a spark checker) GOOD to spark plug
4) fuel pressure (in spec) GOOD
5) fuel injector pluse (GOOD but not liking the dim pluse)
I know I have 4 of the five things needed for a engine to run
5 Things an Engine Needs in order to Run
Air
Spark
Fuel – fuel pressure and fuel injector pulse
Compression
Timing – All of the above at the right time
The next test will prove the engine will run and send me looking for the cause of a dim pluse what is this simple test... TIP I have not proven I have one of these...
Fuel – fuel pressure and fuel injector pulse
Its not "fuel pressure and fuel injector pulse" what test can I preform to prove what I need for the engine to run. I can take all the injectors throw them away and plug the holes what do I need to add/induce to prove the engine will run. This holds true for your tractor also you don't need a carburetor to prove the engine will run to keep it tractor related...
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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